epiClimbing

2008-10-01T16:08:00.000-07:00

Jess Johnson climbing underdog 5.13a

2008-08-29T20:51:00.000-07:00

Jed pulling through one of the many cruxes on Jug Abuse 5.13B Cannabis Area- American Fork

The last few weeks we have been slowly completing all the routes in the Cannabis area. Including Underdog and Teardrop both 13's....

Jed Nearing the top of the route!

2008-07-13T12:56:00.000-07:00

Tony rallying his FJ up in the Uintah Mountains

2008-07-12T10:57:00.000-07:00

Mountain goat up by Patty's Ridge in Big Cottonwood Canyon

This is about as close as you can get to a Mountain Goat. He was curious and even sniffed my hand. Any closer I would probably have gotten horned!!

2008-05-17T20:36:00.000-07:00

This weekend me and Zach headed down to Joe's Valley for a full day packed of bouldering. Our first stop was Area 51. We both did the stand up to resident evil very quickly. I ended up flashing the stand up and was able to nab Resident Evil v10 in two goes. This problem is rad and has a lot of moves that require flagging your left foot way under your right.... Well that is the way we did it anyway! Kinda wierd beta but it did the trick!

Zachs car survived the whole trip which we are glad to say. One of the belts was going out fast but it was a trooper and got us there and back.

Here is Zach sticking the long throw on M-PAd. This is a fun problem in Dark Canyon in the right hand fork. It looks like somebody is working a sit down variation into this which looks ridiculously hard.

This is me on 'The Worm Turns' a classic v10 at the Sandbox Area in lefthand fork. The first move was by far the hardest for me: Going from the right hand undercling into the bottom of the tufa!

Once you get both hands on the worm you simply turn on it which is easier said then done.

The last move is an awkward throw to a jug.

2008-05-10T16:16:00.000-07:00

This weekend was mainly a mountain biking trip to moab, but on day three I did not want to sit on my bike seat any more!! So we headed up to 'Return of the Jedi' a v10 at big bend. It is a cool line that traverses slopers and edges from left to right. These pictures are taken at what I thought to be the crux.

Here you are totally spread out and you have to let your whole body swing down. It is really hard not to have your butt drag on the ground, but if you tuck up on the swing and lock your right heel in around the corner you will be solid.

The final part is just edging your right hand up the arete until you can throw for the top jug to finish off the problem. It ends with an easy mantle.

2008-05-07T10:05:00.000-07:00

Here is Zach onsighting Jonathon's Slab up little cottonwood. This is an old Jonathon Knight problem that climbs up fifteen feet to a sloping shelf and continues after for about ten feet to the top. We had more pads then needed but since we had a whole posse of climbers we decided to just use them.

-Here Jeff is mantling the sloping shelf half way up.

- Here I am climbing Chaos, one of the best problems at Big Bend in Moab.

2008-05-06T13:54:00.000-07:00

This was a hot day to do Bully v11 up little cottonwood, but the holds are all there so it was a good time.

-Here I am catching the long throw.

-A few tweaky moves but I think it is a rad problem!

Jeff repeating the crippler with no spotters and two small pads. This is another classic line with an exciting finish.

Here I am on Blue Steel. Props to Tim Kemple on the FA. This is the freaking coolest line ever. The river is pretty high so we had to use long logs to construct a landing pad. The landing we made is pretty bomber. We have this problem dialed all the way to the lip, but attempting it in may is a bad idea!! Every time I get to the lip I start greasing off the slopers. It is too damn hot to get good friction. But give us one cool morning and we will be back up to send it, if not it is going down next fall for sure.

2008-05-04T18:01:00.000-07:00

This spring has been focused on the classic highball problems in little cottoonwood. We have climbed Prime Rib, Big Baby Jesus, Babe and many others. Jeff even sent the scary high ball problem called the crippler. The rest of us bailed out on topping the thing out in fear that it might end all of our climbing careers!Along with these came the completion of doing Bully which in my opinion is a rad line with fun movement. Hopefully we will get some more fun climbs in before the summer heat is upon us. But so far it has been the start to a good season!

Jeff on Babe v9